Once you have it the way you want it, flip the fabric back over so that the top and bottom are once again layered directly on top of each other. If you would like a longer or shorter sleeve, adjust the measurement accordingly. The width of the shoulder plus sleeve, that is, the distance from the center of the neck to the wrist, is set at about 64cm (25"). All measurements in the picture are in inches. Note: This is a side view. See more ideas about male kimono, kimono, kimono pattern. You should end up with two sleeves, one collar, one collar reinforcement strip, and two body panels. This will eliminate the seam running down the center of the back. If using fabric at least 36" wide, these strips can be included as part of the body. Also, the back panel should not be more than 2cm (~3/4") narrower than the shoulder. This will eliminate the two seams running down the front. Measure your height (you may want to add one inch) from the starting point and fold the fabric once again, giving you eight total layers. A man's yukata has a shorter distance from the base of the collar to the hemline--in other words, the collar is longer. A man's yukata is almost the same, but there are some stylistic differences. Traditional yukata fabric looks exactly as clear and bright on the the wrong side as the right side due to the printing process. (For better precision, use the metric measurements given above instead.) Back panel width = (Hip - Front hip width)/2 + 1.5cm (~5/8") Men yukata kimono / ML #455. (Another style is to eliminate the dangling part altogether, making the sleeve more like a traditional Western sleeve.) $69.99 USD . Directions for cutting a yukata roll: If there is still fabric left over after these miscellaneous pieces are cut out (which will depend on your height and the length of your sleeves), it is generally used to make a matching cloth handbag. The directions given here are for a woman's yukata. Also, the back panel should not be more than 2cm (~3/4") narrower than the shoulder. All measurements in the picture are in inches. If you would like a longer or shorter sleeve, adjust the measurement accordingly. You will have two sleeve panels, two body panels, and one miscellaneous panel. All measurements in the picture are in inches. If using fabric at least 28" wide, it is possible to save time by making one wide panel rather than two narrow ones. If using fabric at least 36" wide, these strips can be included as part of the body. All measurements in the picture are in inches. Another alteration option for women is to move the collar opening backward past the shoulders. We always stock more than 1,000 designs of yukata kimonos, traditional Japanese kimonos, obi belts, hakama pants, and so on. (For better precision, use the metric measurements given above instead.) Men do not do this triple-belting process (called ohashori); a man's yukata is simply belted once at the waist like a regular bathrobe. Customer reviews. This should be either the same as your height or height + 1". Next, line the two sleeves up with the body, one on either side, so that the folds all align. Whatever fabric remains will be used to make the front strips, collar, and collar reinforcement strip. If you have broader shoulders/longer arms than this, one way to compensate is to use a narrower seam allowance, but this will only gain you about an inch. You will have two sleeve panels, two body panels, and one miscellaneous panel. 2) Your height * 85%. This eliminates the seam in the back. This eliminates the two front seams. If you would like a longer or shorter sleeve, adjust the measurement accordingly. Hip = circumference of hips at widest point Begin cutting on top of the shoulder seam about 1 inch in from the sleeve seam. 4.5 out of 5 stars 97. Fold the two sleeve panels and two body panels in half, wrong sides together. (It is helpful to do this on a long table.) About Yukata...Bringing Japan’s traditional casual clothing to people around the world. Alter as desired. Find the back seam to center the garment. There are extra-long/extra-wide yukata rolls manufactured with a width of 39cm (15"), so that may be your only option other than switching to Western-style fabric. Instead of the ohashori, a man's yukata has a hem sewn into the middle of the garment around the waist (where the tuck will be covered by the belt). Measure your height (you may want to add one inch) from the starting point and fold the fabric once again, giving you eight total layers. This is the length from the back of the neck to the point where the sleeve attaches to the body. To save time, do not cut the black dashed line. The black line in the picture represents two layers of fabric. To save time, do not cut the black dashed line. *Do not make the knot too tight as you may not be able to untie it later. (For better precision, use the metric measurements given above instead.) Note: This is a side view. You will have two sleeve panels, two body panels, and one miscellaneous panel. $64.99 USD . Cut the fabric lengthwise in half, then cut each half into three parts to create six panels of equal … Cut along the black lines and fold along the purple lines. This course was filmed live DIY YUKATA Class at American Buddhist Study Center and edited by our volunteer video production crew including Yukiko, herself. A Kaku-obi can be tied the same as women's Kaino-kuchi. They will also wear zori or dress sandals. Men's Yukata Kaku-obi About Kaku-obi. A third option is to consider the garment a "mini-yukata" with a high hemline. This is then covered with a fancier belt that can be tied in a large bow in the back. Marking the right side is to make sure that you don't accidentally flip the fabric over, thus misaligning the pattern. Cutting the Garment Pieces It is a good idea to mark the right side of the fabric if it is difficult to tell which side is which. To save time, do not cut the black dashed line. If using a. With the lowest prices online, cheap shipping rates and local collection options, you can make an even bigger saving. Slide one edge of the fabric up until the pattern matches the way you would like it to look on the finished product. You can decide which you like best.] $67.47 $ 67. Keeping the folds aligned, flip the sleeves over or switch sides until the pattern on the sleeves matches up with the pattern on the body in a way you consider acceptable. This helps it stand up straight at the back of the neck. Japan uses the metric system, so a metric ruler is helpful when marking the fabric. The black line in the picture represents two layers of fabric. This will eliminate the two seams running down the front. From this point, measure about 53cm (21"). The length that will be attached to the body is longer. Body panels (2): 36cm X 320cm (14" X 2*Height [+1"]) Collar (1): 18cm X 192cm (7" X 76") Put a front part of Obi lower than the back for manly style. Align the center back seam with your backbone. Directions for cutting 72cm (28") fabric: Pattern Matching II Every day, we receive dozens of happy comments and beautiful photos from all around the world. It is helpful to pin a note to the body to indicate that this will be the back. Along the folded edge, cut only the section marked in red. The measurements given above include an ohashori allowance. You should end up with two sleeves, two front strips, one collar, one collar reinforcement strip, and one large body panel. A man's yukata is attached to the body for about 42cm (16.5"), and then the part of the sleeve that dangles is sewn together on a line that slants away from the body. This will eliminate the seam running down the center of the back. For more detailed information on how to make a man's yukata, see Alterations for Men. Directions for cutting 72cm (28") fabric: Collar (1): 18cm X 192cm (7" X 76") The length can be longer if you are wearing your women’s Yukata to a festival because you will pull the excess under your obi belt to create the Kimono look. $69.99 USD . Body panels (2): 36cm X 320cm (14" X 2*Height [+1"]), Front strips (2): 18cm X 140cm (7" X 55"), Collar reinforcement strip (1): 18cm X 88cm (7" X 35"). Pin a small note on each sleeve indicating which is the left/back and which is the right/back. Using silk (to provide a more luxurious appearance), wool (for warmth in winter), or some other material will give the yukata a different feel. One major difference is in the way the sleeves are sewn. Put the bottom of the Yukata to your right, the top to your left, and unruffle it on the floor. This means that you unroll the entire length of the fabric and fold it roughly in half, bringing the front edge to the back edge. To save time, do not cut the black dashed line. A woman's festival yukata is designed so that the hemline is pulled upward until it reaches the ankles, and then it is belted in place just above the hips. This is the length that the sleeve will dangle downward from the wrist. This will be the starting point for the sleeves. Once you have it the way you want it, flip the fabric back over so that the top and bottom are once again layered directly on top of each other. All measurements in the picture are in inches. You will have a square with three pointed corners and one rounded corner. Proceed to hem the wrist exactly as with the woman's yukata. (Make certain when folding that all layers remain exactly on top of one another.). The pattern for a yukata is very simple, because every piece starts out as a rectangle. One option is to make the sleeves shorter. The fabric is resistant to wrinkles and shrinkage. The formula for determining the front and back panel width is as follows: Hip = circumference of hips at widest point (This is the traditional style of certain types of kimono, such as that worn by a bride or, in contrast, a prostitute. Pin a small note on each sleeve indicating which is the left/back and which is the right/back. Men's Yukata Robe The Yukata Robe is California Cowboy’s take on the lost art of poolside luxury. Slide your arms through the sleeves. Cut along the black lines and fold along the purple lines. The width of the shoulder plus sleeve, that is, the distance from the center of the neck to the wrist, is set at about 64cm (25"). The women’s Yukata will have the butterfly sleeve with the hole under the arm. At the starting mark, fold the fabric back one last time. - This is a Machine-washable item - The yukata panels are designed to wrap around someone with a hip measurement of about 92cm (~36"). Whatever fabric remains will be used to make the front strips, collar, and collar reinforcement strip. How to dress in Yukata. Men do not do this triple-belting process (called ohashori); a man's yukata is simply belted once at the waist like a regular bathrobe. Collar reinforcement strip (1): 18cm X 88cm (7" X 35") For those who want "unique" rather than traditional yukata, such as for a costume party, it is best to use standard Western-style fabric. Cut along the black lines and fold along the purple lines. Keeping the folds aligned, flip the sleeves over or switch sides until the pattern on the sleeves matches up with the pattern on the body in a way you consider acceptable. 2. But you may have to act fast as this top men yukata is set to become one of the most sought-after best-sellers in no time. The main differences: The wrist opening is longer. 1. Your seam should look like the red line in the diagram. Yukata intended for use by younger individuals to attend festivals are usually brightly colored, often to the point of appearing garish, while more mature individuals usually prefer to wear subdued browns and grays. Instead of the "collar core" of the woman's version, for this undercollar you will need two pieces of fabric about 18cm X 30cm (7" X 12"). It is a good idea to mark the right side of the fabric if it is difficult to tell which side is which. All measurements in the picture are in inches. Measure your height (you may want to add one inch) from the starting point and fold the fabric once again, giving you eight total layers. On very formal occasions, men will wear a kimono called a montsuki that is made of black silk. Beneath the seam connecting the sleeve to the body, a gap is left open where the front panel is not sewn to the back panel. MAYSONG Men's Japanese Yukata Japanese Kimono Home Robe Pajamas Dressing Gown. I will do my best to convert measurements to inches, but they will all be approximations. You should end up with two sleeves, one collar, one collar reinforcement strip, and two body panels. This eliminates the seam in the back. This will eliminate the two seams running down the front. If you are using 72cm (28") wide fabric, you will need at least 6m (6.6yd) for a standard yukata, more if you are taller than about 5'3". While a good choice if using the yukata for costuming, whether for a party or a dramatic production, this style is considered too revealing for normal wear. This means that you unroll the entire length of the fabric and fold it roughly in half, bringing the front edge to the back edge. Men yukata kimono / ML #454. Wrap the other end of Obi around your waist. Instead of the "collar core" of the woman's version, for this undercollar you will need two pieces of fabric about 18cm X 30cm (7" X 12"). Changing the placement of the first belt or the amount of fabric included in the overlapping fold is one way for women to raise or lower the hemline of the yukata. To save time, do not cut the black dashed line. You should end up with two sleeves, one collar, one collar reinforcement strip, and two body panels. Note: The picture is not to scale. The measurements given above include an ohashori allowance. You should end up with two sleeves, two front strips, one collar, one collar reinforcement strip, and one large body panel. Cut along the black lines and fold along the purple lines. This 300-year-old technique involves folding the yukata fabric into the size of tenugui towels; then the dye is poured over the material, to create the design. KYOETSU Men's Japanese Yukata Spa Robe Set (Yukata/String) 4.0 out of 5 stars 9. Eventbrite - American Buddhist Study Center presents [Online Class] DIY Mens YUKATA making workshop with Yukiko - Thursday, December 24, 2020 - Find event and ticket information. Traditional yukata fabric looks exactly as clear and bright on the the wrong side as the right side due to the printing process. If you are using a yukata roll, you will automatically have two selvage edges on most of the pieces, but if you are using a wider fabric you should sew along the cut edges to prevent them from raveling. If you have broader shoulders/longer arms than this, one way to compensate is to use a narrower seam allowance, but this will only gain you about an inch. Men yukata kimono / ML #456. Cut in a straight line from the top seam to the top of the waist. Slip your arms into the sleeves of the yukata and grasp it along its front hem, one side in each hand, at about waist level. Put on the yukata as you would a robe. This option is also a way to make extremely long sleeves. Front panel width = Front hip width - 15cm (6") [this is the front strip width] Body panels (2): 36cm X 304cm (14" X 120"), Front strips (2): 18cm X 135cm (7" X 53"), Collar reinforcement strip (1): 18cm X 83cm (7" X 33"). From this point, measure about 53cm (21"). (For better precision, use the metric measurements given above instead.) This is because the collar must be tucked under the belt at the waist or the garment will slide open. The collar is also given an extra undercollar to make it stand up straight. This is then covered with a fancier belt that can be tied in a large bow in the back. Unlike making Western-style clothing, where the fabric is marked before it is cut, traditional Japanese-style clothing is cut first and marked just before being sewn. (It is helpful to do this on a long table.) (Unfortunately, the picture I took of the tulip print cut off the bloom on the downward-facing flower.). I you are wearing your Yukata around the house, then pick the length that is comfortable for you. If you do not have anything but only Yukata, this set may help you to save your money. (Another style is to eliminate the dangling part altogether, making the sleeve more like a traditional Western sleeve.) At the starting mark, fold the fabric back one last time. Sewing the Sleeve At the 53cm mark, fold both layers of fabric over so that you now have four layers. Note: This is a side view. 3. If you would like a longer or shorter sleeve, adjust the measurement accordingly. Sleeves (2): 36cm X 106cm (14" X 42") I am told that traditional Japanese garments are also supposed to use special long pins. At this point, the bottom four layers are the sleeves and the top four layers are the body. How to Sew Japanese Sewing Patterns. Unlike making Western-style clothing, where the fabric is marked before it is cut, traditional Japanese-style clothing is cut first and marked just before being sewn. If your calculation has the back panel wider than the shoulder, you will have to widen the shoulder to compensate. Changing the placement of the first belt or the amount of fabric included in the overlapping fold is one way for women to raise or lower the hemline of the yukata. One option is to make the sleeves shorter. If you are using a yukata roll, you will automatically have two selvage edges on most of the pieces, but if you are using a wider fabric you should sew along the cut edges to prevent them from raveling. This eliminates the two front seams. The back is constructed of two panels sewn together. The extra flap of fabric this creates is then smoothed down to cover the belt and once again held down with a belt. At the starting mark, fold the fabric back one last time. Fold the two sleeve panels and two body panels in half, wrong sides together. At the 53cm mark, fold both layers of fabric over so that you now have four layers. The extra flap of fabric this creates is then smoothed down to cover the belt and once again held down with a belt. 1) Your height - 11" or 12". This eliminates the seam in the back. At this point, the bottom four layers are the sleeves and the top four layers are the body. This will be the starting point for the sleeves. How to Wear Yukata Video: Take a square of cardboard at least 7.5cm (3") on each side (larger if you want a more gentle curve). A woman who is considerably taller than about 5'3" and still wants to use a standard yukata roll will have to make adjustments or there will be insufficient fabric. If you use a yukata roll, you will probably want to match the pattern. Instead of the ohashori, a man's yukata has a hem sewn into the middle of the garment around the waist (where the tuck will be covered by the belt). Take about 16" or an arm's length from one Obi end and fold it in half (vertically).Hold this end on … First of all, prepare what is needed. If your hips (or waist) are wider than this, the yukata will not wrap properly. Take 11-16" from the edge. If the pattern only faced one direction, either the print on the back or the print on the front would be completely upside down. The same goes for the front panel width. (For better precision, use the metric measurements given above instead.) At this point, the bottom four layers are the sleeves and the top four layers are the body. If a man were to wear a yukata with such an open collar, it would make him appear feminine. If you are using a yukata roll, you will automatically have two selvage edges on most of the pieces, but if you are using a wider fabric you should sew along the cut edges to prevent them from raveling. Front strips (2): 18cm X 140cm (7" X 55") If there is still fabric left over after these miscellaneous pieces are cut out (which will depend on your height and the length of your sleeves), it is generally used to make a matching cloth handbag. A man's yukata has a shorter distance from the base of the collar to the hemline--in other words, the collar is longer. Clothing always looks good on you if it is the right size. The farther back from the shoulder fold that you cut the opening for the collar, the wider the collar will open in the back. If your calculation has the back panel wider than the shoulder, you will have to widen the shoulder to compensate. Cutting the Garment Pieces Align the two body panels next to each other; this is what the back of the yukata will look like when finished. From this point, measure about 53cm (21"). Cut along the black lines and fold along the purple lines. The same goes for the front panel width. Next, line the two sleeves up with the body, one on either side, so that the folds all align. The position of the knot does not matter unless the strings are tied tightly, because the knot will eventually be covered by the obi. A man's yukata also lacks the underarm opening that is left in a woman's yukata; the front and back panels are sewn together starting immediately beneath where the sleeves are attached. The yukata panels are designed to wrap around someone with a hip measurement of about 92cm (~36"). This is the length from the back of the neck to the point where the sleeve attaches to the body. However, using standard short pins is acceptable. Cut the fabric wherever it touches the starting mark. (Make certain when folding that all layers remain exactly on top of one another.) At the 53cm mark, fold both layers of fabric over so that you now have four layers. This eliminates the seam in the back. This eliminates the two front seams. To save time, do not cut the black dashed line. Next, line the two sleeves up with the body, one on either side, so that the folds all align. " Traditional KIMONO making is very complex, I am implementing how to make it simple as possible." After the season, when you put the Yukata away in the chest of drawers, fold it like the manner following. Stitch the bottom seam allowance to the side seam allowance to hold it in place. Step 1: Put on your yukata over your underwear (undershirt and socks are optional). Choose one corner and measure 3cm (1 3/16") from it on both sides. Whatever fabric remains will be used to make the front strips, collar, and collar reinforcement strip. Directions for cutting a yukata roll: Along the folded edge, cut only the section marked in red. $59.99 USD . It is a good idea to mark the right side of the fabric if it is difficult to tell which side is which. The measurements of the garment overall are wider on a man's yukata. You may want to make the sleeve slightly wider, up to 34cm (13 3/8"), though this will cut into the seam allowance where the sleeve attaches to the body. (This is the traditional style of certain types of kimono, such as that worn by a bride or, in contrast, a prostitute. Mark a spot near the edge of the fabric where the two free ends overlap (making certain, if you have matched the pattern, that your mark includes both layers). Sleeves (2): 36cm X 106cm (14" X 42") There are two ways to measure this. Front strips (2): 18cm X 140cm (7" X 55") Next, line the two sleeves up with the body, one on either side, so that the folds all align. You will have two sleeve panels, two body panels, and one miscellaneous panel. This is the length that the sleeve will dangle downward from the wrist when the arm is held extended parallel to the ground. The price of a yukata ranges from a thousand yen simple ones to a couple of ten thousand yen for the more exquisite. The nape of the neck, rather than the chest, is considered a highly erotic zone.) If you are using 90cm (36") wide fabric, you will need at least 4.26m (4.7yd), more if you are taller. The collar is also given an extra undercollar to make it stand up straight. When worn, it should reach from the base of the neck to the ankles, belted at the waist. Pattern Matching I Note: The picture is not to scale. The farther back from the shoulder fold that you cut the opening for the collar, the wider the collar will open in the back. Draw an arc that is tangent to the two sides at the marks you made, then cut along the arc. Directions for cutting 90cm (36") fabric: It's a good idea to flip the long sleeves... 2. Cut along the black lines and fold along the purple lines. Move the folded Obi ends to V shape like the photo. Yukata wearing is even simpler for men, who aren’t required to make an ohashori fold. A third option is to consider the garment a "mini-yukata" with a high hemline. Nov 28, 2017 - Explore Kruvvy Chiang's board "MEN'S KIMONO" on Pinterest. Keeping the folds aligned, flip the sleeves over or switch sides until the pattern on the sleeves matches up with the pattern on the body in a way you consider acceptable. At this point, the bottom four layers are the sleeves and the top four layers are the body. To save time, do not cut the black dashed line. Often dyers use stencils to create unique patterns that separate the colors creating images that permeate every inch of … Instead, men’s obi are tied lower on the waist, and men are encouraged to create a sort of “pot belly” shape by wearing a special yukata pad for a rounder belly shape. All measurements in the picture are in inches. If you are using 90cm (36") wide fabric, you will need at least 4.26m (4.7yd), more if you are taller. This measurement should equal (your hip size) / 4 + 3/4". You can simply make this yourself out of a piece of cardboard such as an empty cereal box. Alter as desired. If you are using 72cm (28") wide fabric, you will need at least 6m (6.6yd) for a standard yukata, more if you are taller than about 5'3". If you would like to understand Japanese sewing patterns better, or if you are new to sewing garments, I recommend you read the ebook, How to Sew Japanese Sewing Patterns. If you are using a yukata roll, you will automatically have two selvage edges on most of the pieces, but if you are using a wider fabric you should sew along the cut edges to prevent them from raveling. It is helpful to pin a note to the body to indicate that this will be the back. Collar (1): 18cm X 192cm (7" X 76") A woman's festival yukata is designed so that the hemline is pulled upward until it reaches the ankles, and then it is belted in place just above the hips. See the listed article below for the best Kimono/Yukata rental stores in Tokyo in 2019! Learn how to make a summer casual KIMONO, YUKATA online This sewing method will … They wear it over a white under-robe and a pair of traditional trousers called hakama. Align the two body panels next to each other; this is what the back of the yukata will look like when finished. Body panels (2): 36cm X 320cm (14" X 2*Height [+1"]) Slide one edge of the fabric up until the pattern matches the way you would like it to look on the finished product. Directions for cutting 90cm (36") fabric: The black line in the picture represents two layers of fabric. The farther back from the shoulder fold that you cut the opening for the collar, the wider the collar will open in the back. Keeping the folds aligned, flip the sleeves over or switch sides until the pattern on the sleeves matches up with the pattern on the body in a way you consider acceptable. $59.99 USD . IROHA Yukata Shop and Rental offers a wide range of men’s and women’s yukata, as well as some for the kids. Appropriate prints for a yukata include stripes (especially for men), stylized animals (birds, butterflies, dragonflies, rabbits, dragons), Chinese characters (particularly those symbolizing happiness, good luck, and long life), and large, intensely colored flowers. The back is constructed of two panels sewn together. "Yukata" is Japanese traditional summer wear.Why don't you try wearing "Yukata" to enjoy Japanese summer event ? This option is also a way to make extremely long sleeves. Align the two body panels next to each other; this is what the back of the yukata will look like when finished. (Yukata for small children have extra tucks at the shoulders that can be let out as the children grow.) Note: The back panel width (measured at the hemline) cannot be wider than the shoulder width. Next, line the two sleeves up with the body, one on either side, so that the folds all align. FREE Shipping by Amazon. (For better precision, use the metric measurements given above instead.) At the point where the upper two layers meet the starting mark, fold them back once again, giving you six layers. Join Prime to save $6.75 on this item. Slide one edge of the fabric up until the pattern matches the way you would like it to look on the finished product. If you are using 90cm (36") wide fabric, you will need at least 4.26m (4.7yd), more if you are taller. Collar reinforcement strip (1): 18cm X 88cm (7" X 35") If you use a yukata roll, you will probably want to match the pattern. Pattern Matching II Cutting the Garment Pieces (For better precision, use the metric measurements given above instead.) You should end up with two sleeves, two front strips, one collar, one collar reinforcement strip, and one large body panel. Yukiko, who is a Wardrobe Stylist, teaches you how to make your Mens size YUKATA (Casual Summer KIMONO) out of modern cotton fabrics. This is a strip that connects the front panel to the collar. If using fabric at least 28" wide, it is possible to save time by making one wide panel rather than two narrow ones. Another option is to do without the ohashori and wear the yukata the same way a man would; in this case, leaving the sleeves long still gives it a feminine look. After wrapping the obi, tie the strings attached to both ends and make a knot like a bow at the center front. Donned in Japan by men and women alike, a yukata is a lightweight alternative to the more-formal kimono, and is frequently worn to summer festivals, fireworks shows, and bath spas. When cutting out the pieces for a man's yukata, the measurements should be as follows: When you are sewing the curve and you get near the point where the two seam allowances cross, sew a tiny bit past the intersection, go back, turn the sleeve 90° and go back past the intersection a tiny bit again, then sew straight across until you meet the mark that denotes the bottom of the seam that will connect the sleeve to the body. Begin cutting on top of the neck, rather than the back is constructed of two panels sewn together as. Video: Nov 28, 2017 - Explore Kruvvy Chiang 's board `` Men 's Obi - Obi. When you tell them you got your Men yukata on AliExpress, under- sash, cloth string 2. Have a square with three pointed corners and one miscellaneous panel prints specifically. The length from the wrist opening is longer yukata kimonos, traditional Japanese garments are also supposed to special... Manly style, is considered a highly erotic zone. ) the nape of the will... Matches the way you would like a traditional Western sleeve. ) table. ) collar. As a rectangle layers of fabric over, thus misaligning the pattern we have fans. This option is to move the collar open wide in the world height/2 or +... A third option is to move the folded edge, cut only the section in! Change the hemline, this part can be let out as the right size a... 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